Hike -> buffet -> more hiking

If someone has put that on paper I would’ve said, wait a minute, that sounds like a horrible idea. But that’s exactly what I did.

Let’s go back to the start of this day where I hiked 25 miles in 30+ C weather and what might be my first moment of desperation.

The day before, Turmeric and I part ways as she realized at the trail head that she left her phone in town. We said we would meet up down the trail and I hiked on by myself. The first time in a while on this trail.

Start of day

I woke up super groggy and wishing for more sleep but one look at the sky where I cowboy camped I knew I woke up way too late. Shouldn’t spent that time playing with that star time lapse last night. I let way too much time lapse before going to sleep. 😉 I hurried up to pack my stuff. You would be surprised how quickly I can do it in an organized manor after many days on the trail. 20 minutes later and I was on the trail at 6 am.

The Plan

I hipped my pack (most of the weight should be on your hips anyway) and looked at my map. Let me fill you in on the days plan. Yesterday I passed by a river that signified the beginning of a 20 mile stretch of no water. I decided to hike 6 miles or so last night to give myself a headstart on this waterless stretch. I wanted to make it past the highway I-10 and Cabazon to the whitewater preserves because there are no campsites from the highway to the preserve, other than going into a town. I really didn’t want to go back into town a day after leaving Idyllwild. Adding up the 17 miles to the highway and 9 miles to the preserve would make it a 26 miles day. I was feeling optimistic about this, especially considering I can hitch into Cabazon for a casino buffet before making the last 9 miles. Sounds good on paper so let’s go.

Oh why was waking up at 6 too late? Because today was going to be 30+C and I’ll be descending on a shadeless east facing slope in the morning, which means zero relief from the scorching sun.

The Journey to I-10

I left camp just as the sun peaked over the horizon, and it’s funny how the desert can go from freezing cold to hot in no time. Right away I started striping down my extra layers, put on my sunglasses and sun hood as the sun started lighting everything up.

The next 6 hours was brutal. Absolutely relentless descent from 2200 meters to 500 with a heavy pack full of water. Beautiful views along the way and singing to my music (embarrassing when you didn’t see someone in front of you.) kept me company as I hopped from resting in one shade to another.

Finally I made it down to the next water source, a spigot next to a road and parking. I gladly had my fill of water and then quickly moved on to hike to the highway I-10 as a man on a mission to go into town for that famous buffet before they close for lunch.

The next four miles was slow and tiring. I started off by walking on a road downhill. The cement sticky as if my soles melt a little every time I take a step in the hot desert heat. My joints also shakes from the jolting force of stepping downhill on the hard surface. it was brutal.

After a few miles or so I came across an fascinating sight. A camper van with a yawning flapping in the wind. As I got closer, the owner of the van came out and waved Hi. I smiled and waved back and thought it was the end of it. Then he said, wanna come for a soda? Ummmm yea! Are you kidding me? Yes! A cold soda was like everything I wanted at that moment! Well, a dominos delivery guy popping out with a pizza right then and there would be good too but you get the point.

He handed me a cold coke and offered me a seat. Turns out, he is a former Appalachian trail hiker who is on a road trip across the country this year. he showed me his rig and his shower hook up in the back which I was so tempted to ask to use but I didn’t. We sat and talked for a while as I drank the Coke and ate the banana he offered before I decided I still had a goal to make. That little refreshment though, was what gave me the mental strength to make it to the highway so thank you thank you!

Soon enough, I was face to face with the I-10 highway and the underpass below the road.

Inside was, as expected, hikers laying about hiding from the hot sun of mid day. Right in there as well, a stock of cold drinks, fruits and water. I definitely won’t say no to a second soda and more fruits so I sat around and talked with few of the people there.

To Cabazon and Back

But soon I realized I needed to get going if I want to be at the buffet in time. Cabazon is still 6 miles by road so i got up and walked over to the side road to try to get a hitchhike. This was the first time I tried hitchhiking by myself and I sincerely wondered how this is going to go. What if I had to stand here for hours? But sure enough, two minutes later, a red truck stopped and I rushed over to meet the driver. He said, “where the hell are you going?” to which I replied, ” I would like to go to Cabazon.” “Well, you are on the wrong road then, this road goes nowhere.” “Oh….” “Well no worries, hop on in, I will take you to Cabazon” I could’ve not been happier to hear that so I got on and he took an u-turn and we were off.

The man giving me the ride is a concrete contractor who could not be happier moving out of Las Angeles couple decades to a house on the hill on the mountains. He told me about life out here, the wildlife and his pet turtle and soon enough we dropped me off right at the casino. I thanked him profusely and I was off through the front door, headed towards the buffet.

The buffet was glorious. Sorry I am still working on documenting things when I am away from nature but you can imagine a Vegas style buffet so you get the point. Today is Mexican themed so there are multiple stations of Mexican food, quesadilla, enchiladas, beef and chicken braised in sauce and make your own tacos. Other than that there is a carving station, Mongolian stir fry station and rows and rows of desserts. I was in heaven.

2 hours later I was way too stuffed and figured I should make my way back to the trail. Oh buffets, my worst frienemy. This part is more difficult than before since the casino is right next to a major highway of cars going every direction. At this point, I was pretty lazy and really full so I pulled up my phone and called a Uber.

The guy was hella confused… you want me to drop you off here? At the side of the this road in the middle of nowhere? Do you live here? I said no and tried to explain to him about the PCT but he was definitely still confused at the end of it. With a laugh of amusement, he pulled over on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere and I got out and walked away to his chuckles.

Moment of Desperation

Some time later, after resting back at the bridge to try to digest the food, I set off again. Determined to make 9 miles to the sweet Oasis of whitewater preserve. Soon I realized I made a huge mistake. The sun at 4 pm was still just as hot as high noon and soon I was sweating profusely. I felt weak and sluggish with the heat and the bully of salty food and I kept demanding water out of my bottle. Soon I was left with about half a liter and 6 miles left to go.

“This is going to be miserable” I thought to myself at the aspect of hiking six miles under the still hot sun with half a liter of water. At this point, there’s no stopping, it was make it to the preserve or nothing as I did not have enough water to dry camp. So I strained on, taking slow steps up the unrelenting slope and heat.

Then I saw something. I saw this.

Without thinking I followed the arrow and it led to more signs with arrows, guiding me through like a game and then eventually I found this. A canopy and one case of bottled water.

Saved by Kindness

I greedily grabbed at the water case and to my excitement, I found them half frozen and cold. I fumbled with the cap and tipped the cold refreshing liquid down my throat, drinking till all that’s left in the bottle was ice. Now I wish they weren’t frozen. In my genius ways, I started pouring my own water into the bottle of ice, giving it a vigorous shake and then drinking again. This incredible kindness basically saved me from a night of misery and I can’t even tell you how grateful I was. I gladly threw five dollars into the donation jar.

The people responsible are the workers at Mesa Wind Farm. As I later found out, during office hours they provide hikers with water and a place to rest inside, interesting conversations and snacks for sale. The many interactions I have had with strangers was more than I ever expected. Everywhere I went people cheered us on and gave whatever help they could.

With the newfound strength and mental determination, I climbed on with the setting sun and then darkness. Eventually settling at a flat spot at a cliff side a mile out of the preserve. I was tired and I had no idea how the preserve campground was set up and I did not want to disturb the people there by showing up late.

Finally, I laid down in my warm sleeping bag, watched the stars shine and reflected on today’s events. 25 miles (40 freakin km!) under 30+ weather, hitchhiking by myself for the first time, Vegas style buffets and running out of water. This is something I will definitely never forget, especially the kindness of people that made me strive on and gave this day a happy ending. I definitely also will be smarter in my scheduling side of things 😉